Hobbit homes and singing Scots

After the drenching we got in Glen Coe, I was anxious to have a nice dry easy day so Ellie wouldn't bite my head off. She was quite close to it too, I had been so impressed by the Glen that we steered off the road just far enough to clearly see our bus-ride to shelter and warmth rush its way away from the two drenched unhappy explorers.

So Kinlochleven came into play. A little nest of houses huddled away in a wee valley surrounded by imposing peaks, it was just the place to shake the mud (and there was a lot of it) off our shoes and sip a pint of well earned ale. No lack of pubs either.

The campsite was a strip of very well-tended grass near a stream that gurgled its way down a glen, trees lining it. Perfect for those who believe in sleeping under a tarp. The cool thing though, were the mini-cabins to be had if one had the mind to rent one. Perfect little Hobbit-holes, barrel shaped and small, Ellie spied inside one and they even had a fridge! We were tempted, but camping was the plan, so we did.

The West Highland Way passes thoughts village, and with good cause. As the 4pm evening light started turning to sunset, the surrounding peaks were lit up gloriously with a golden glow, and on the shadow-shrouded river snaking its way down to the Kin Loch you could catch the occasional glimmer of reflected light.

People here were uncommonly nice, and showed us a proper folky ceilidh. We were swept into a private gathering of musicians and given drinks enough for a weeks partying, surrounded by music, laughter and friendly words. The sort of encounter, as Ellie puts it, that you always hope happens and and never seems to. As for me,surrounded by harps, drums, banjoes, guitars, melodic voices, face masks, fake tattoos and dancing, I felt I was part of a National Geographic article on the Highland tribes.

Cheers!

Rain addled brain

If you ever go to Glen Coe make sure you pay a visit to the Climber's Bar at the Kings House Hotel. Fantastic little bar dedicated to all things awesome and climbing-y. If there is still a Polish dude behind the bar tell him a joke and cheer him up....he's been in Glen Coe for 8 months and its rained every day.  For those more gruesomly inclined there is a 3 litre jar 3/4 full of dead midges. I found this fascinating. This bar caters for all peculiarities.
Glen Coe is a stunning place, all looming, gothicy goodness with a side dollop of the mysterious. As Ranaz described, a perfect Mordor place. However it does rain....a lot, and don't be fooled if the morning is clear and sunny oh no no no nooooo...because it will piss on you, especially when you have just missed the only bus of the day to pass through the glen.   Consequentially we had plenty of time to mull over the places in Glen Coe we would like to explore more as we slurped and  squelched our way through ... The Lost Valley is up there, such a tantalalising name to the amateur explorer. Apparently used as an old hiding spot for tax evading cattle owners.
Also the spectacularly grumpy looking Three Sisters, which jut out into the road. Definitely worth a good climb and a little respect.
Interesting fact- The late Sir Jimmy Saville had a house in the Glen, which every Tom, Dick and Harry who lives within a 30 mile radius of Glen Coe will tell you. Multiple times.  Due to brain being rain addled not a huge amount more thinking was done that day.  Ranaz was being amazing and made us hot drinks half way along. He had a lot to put up with. I can be particularly grumpy when cold and wet.
Incidentally, if you walk for about 4 km away from the Kings House into the glen you will find shelter in form of a sheeps hut. You can't miss it, its the only one.

Outside at last!

Monday and Tuesday were very eventful days. After having FINALLY emptied out my room in the house (with a disgracefully painful hangover) on Sunday, I woke up on the living room couch ready to have my breakfast and call up a cab. Once I had deposited the few meagre remaining worldly possesions which wouldn't make it to Scotland (namely books, playstation games and all the climbing gear), Ellie and I half packed for Scotland. But some few pieces of gear reference missing. So off to Cotswold Outdoor we tubed.

Hate the tube. Glad to see the end of it.

At the. Store we practically tore apart the box containing our newest pieces of kit: alpine waterproofs and an insulated jacket for Ellie, all from Mountain Hardwear. And oh my God they're pretty. As much as we are both gear buffs the first thing that got us was the awesome colours: bright shiny green and blues all around! The fit in my new Jovian jacket is awesome, could have arms a tiny bit bigger but I only know two brands which actually accommodate my frame, and this war definitely long enough. I read some people have complained the chest pockets are too low for use with a harness or rucksack waistbelt, and I think they exaggerate. Just fiddle a tiny bit and it fits perfectly.

Ellie is fascinated with her Zonal jacket, bright blue with softshell panels on the sides and bum. Looks much better in real life than on their catalogue pictures. And she swears it is ax furnace.

Back to less geeky stuff, we had an awesome cheese fondue dinner that night, and off to bed. Morning was the typical horrible flight rush, beautiful airport smells, crushed seating and security hassles (we thought they would unpack Ellie's rucksack) and finally Scotland!

Scotland smells SO nice after London :D we did have the misfortune of setting camp right next to landscaping works so got morning construction clatter. Couldn't even notice it after living in the big city. Sad.

Right now we are off to Fort Williams, off to see and climb mountains! Updates soon!

Dinosaur land

Saw a hawk, got ripped off by taxi driver, discovered buses don't work on Sunday, saw a landscape lost in time and visited the wee fairies.
Very cool two days ( apart from transport hiccups). So much to see in Scotland and such friendly if slightly loony people ( my dad is Scottish before anyone finds a reason for that to be insulting).  Have been meandering around the highlands for two weeks now with the Mexican and I am pleased to report that he was blown away by the place, the mountains, the food and the parties.  Very proud of our little Britain after seeing it through someone else's eyes. We have everything, including a dino playground... Spent today on the Trotternish ridge in Skye and it does look like the Land that Time Forgot. I wouldn't have batted an eyelid if old Mr Rex popped out round a corner. As it happened he didn't more's the pity but we had a beer at the top and decided that the cemetary at the bottom of the ridge must be THE place to be buried. 
Scottish hospitality hit us full on in the face last week in Kinlocheven, hit so hard in fact we cannae remember a thing past 11pm although there is photographic evidence we were up until 1. We were kidnapped by a passing group of folk singers and musicians, alcohol was flowing plentifuly all courtesy of our new found friends. Dionysus would have been proud.
And we danced with the fairies last night. Yup Yup.
Anyhoo I'm off for a beverage.. Slainte

P.s see photo of our new friend Robbie aka tweet

Stew champagne and cheese

After setting off from inverness over 7 hours ago we  find ourselves camping at the bottom of Nevis with chicken stew on the go, a block of cheese and champagne... What an awesome combination. Fairwell London! Catch you later